Has the hands-free kits created the programmed obsolescence of the hands? On the spring-summer 2017 parades, seeing the excessive length of the sleeves crumbling over them, it would seem that the prehensile organ is no longer useful. At Loewe, Dior or Marni, an avant-garde sleeve now ends well beyond the fingers.

Appearing in the autumn-winter 2015 at Hood By Air and Clothing, these long tubes go against the sense of the history of fashion, moved since Gabrielle Chanel by the quest for comfort. There no, the fashion intends to hinder, complicate your life. Such is the price of a questioning of the agreed forms and the established order. At a time when the habit is supposed to accompany a mobile lifestyle, creating new volumes requires a sacrifice. Renounce opening a door, or any other action involving a hand.

At the play of the analysis of the sign, we can see the manifestation of impotence, the incarnation of the grunge posture of the dangling arms, or the sprawling power of a woman who has a long arm. Remains that this modification of the appearance of the body gives rise to an excitation.

In L'Empire de l'Ephémère (Gilbert Lipovetsky, 1987), Gilles Lipovetsky analyzes the inebriation of the unpublished: "With modern individualism, the New finds its full consecration: in every fashion, There is a feeling, however tenuous, of subjective liberation, of enfranchisement in relation to past habits. With each novelty, an inertia is shaken (...) " And what does it matter if the novelty is not new. It is so for those who have forgotten, or have never known, which is doubtless quite sufficient.

In spring-summer 1993, Martin Margiela was already parading a sweater and jacket with disproportionate sleeves; a reflection he will pursue for about ten years. But before him, the original paternity returns to Marc Audibet. Unsurprisingly unknown to the general public, he was the first designer in 1983 to bury the upper limbs in wide and interminable cylinders, Chinese. Then, using the bi-stretch of which he is the inventor, he signs an exaggerated long sleeve, like a glove, closer to the skin. Audibet reveals the sensuality of a hand that one must imagine, whose appearance one is watching for. Concealed, the hand obsesses. The fantasy thus generated will be satisfied with every gesture, for it will be necessary to lift up its sleeve, and all action will be preceded by a stripping.