It all began a few years ago with the nude effect, created by a material that, once applied, could not be seen, not colored but embellished the skin . The technologies have been further refined and the latest innovations in the field of physics and chemistry have given rise to amazing false pretenses used in cosmetology.

Magnetism for illustrated nails

To make appear on the nails (flowers, stripes, stripes ...), as by magic, it is now possible thanks to the magnetism. " It is enough to put in the formula of the varnishes a selection of pigments based on magnetic iron and on the plug a magnet , explains Sylvie Guichard, director of scientific communication makeup L'Oréal research and innovation. The idea is to orient the pigments in relation to the lines of force of the magnet. A thick coat of varnish is applied and the magnet is positioned immediately as close as possible to the nail without touching it . It's ten seconds, and it's ready! " The problem is to find technicians who master both optics and mathematics, " says Guichard. Lancôme was a pioneer of this technique (before abandoning), and then succeeded him the new references below.

The choice of VN: Magnetic Polish from Nails Inc (exclusive to Sephora); Debby's Magnetic (in the Monoprix and department stores); Nail Art Magnet 3D of Nocibé.

Fluorescence for interior light

In foundations and powders, the fluorescent properties of certain pigments are used to achieve the ideal skin color with a light effect . " To put it simply," explains Sylvie Guichard, "pigments absorb light at a certain wavelength. As soon as they have absorbed it, they re-emit it at another wavelength. "The new pink pigments, for example, give intensity and vivacity to the complexion , while blue pigments bring purity and freshness to the face .

The choice of VB: after the Complexion Fluid Complexion of Lancôme, a compact should leave early 2013; L'Oréal Perfume Fluid Foundation Perfume Paris; MAC Moisture Boost Foundation.

Hybridization for depth and radiance

Still in the foundations, to obtain a purer, sharper color, one encircles with pigments a heart in titanium. One can choose different shades and sophisticate the formula by adding micromirrors wrapped in bismuth, for slippery and comfort with a result " liquid light ". The power of reflection of these mirrors is unheard of. The defects of the skin disappear, the features are smoothed.

Another technological feat: " Mix pigments inspired by the two melanins present in our skin, phaeomelanin, predominantly red, and eumelanin, yellow to brown, " as stated by Édouard Mauvais-Jarvis, director of scientific communication Christian Dior. Their combination gives rise to a palette of seventeen shades for all skin tones . And for the foundation to be undetectable, a transparency effect must be recreated on the surface: " Christian Dior's innovation center imagined a vitrified white pigment, inserted in a glass bead. The light is diffused through the glass walls and reflected, naturally and brilliantly, on the outside. "

The choice of VB: Teint Touche Éclat by Yves Saint Laurent (available at the end of August); Radiance Skin Effect Nude Skin Diorskin Nude by Christian Dior; Mister Smooth Givenchy Universal Smoothing Base; Shine Miracle Light Serum of Lancôme.

Hidden pigments for perfect homogeneity

Some formulas, also dedicated to the complexion, contain unsuspected pigments because inserted in capsules of polymer and a base very soft. When the product is applied, the polymers disintegrate in a remarkable glide and give a subtle color and a blinding nude effect.

The choice of VB: the new BB cream Powder Nude Magique by L'Oréal Paris; Mister Radiant Good Custom Mine by Givenchy; MAC Match Master Foundation SPF15.

Silica for electrifying colors

" Here is a new family of particles for the make-up of eyes and nails ," says Sylvie Guichard (L'Oréal). Microfilaments of aluminum, silver, etc., are coated in silica. This changes the path of light which then gives a metallic and shiny effect. It is by varying the thickness of silica that one gets blue, yellow, green ... reflections, for an electrifying finish.

The choice of VB: Artliner by Lancôme. Blackstar Shadow Fard Fondant Look by Terry; Aqua Cream by Make Up For Ever; lipstick, eye shadows and varnish, L'Orré Collection L'Oréal Paris.

Solvents for subtle tones on the eyelids

Unlike conventional pressed powder eyeshadows, the particles are mixed with solvents, and then evaporated . Thus, these particles are not crushed and several colors coexist, as in a mosaic. " In the end, we get a monochrome film, slippery, vibrant, intense shine, long-lasting, spreading on the finger in a single pass, " says Karim Rahman, makeup expert of L'Oréal Paris.

The choice of VB: Eyes To Kill by Giorgio Armani; MAC Dynamic Duo Eyeshadow # 1 and # 2.

A beautiful tan without sun or DHA

Easier to handle than a self-tanner, these new formulas do the job. Terry de Gunzburg, creator of by Terry, explains: " I introduced a melanin booster (patented caravan formula, based on flavonoids and enzymes tyrosinases) in an anti-aging and moisturizing treatment. Used alone (or under the foundation the first days), this virtual sun makes the tan rise in three to five days while microprisms soft touch blur the features. "Radiant Mine assured. For a sunny, impalpable shine, the new powders also give a second skin effect . Nicolas Degennes, artistic director makeup and colors of Givenchy fragrances, says: " I eliminated the talc, then I" baked "the compact of a single block in a mold. Water and solvent evaporate, leaving only an aerial texture. "

The choice of VB: Terrybly Sun Booster by Terry; Givenchy Mine Powder Cruise; Pure Color Powder Powder Light Effect, Bronze Goddess Capri, by Estée Lauder.