I have UV banned skin

In some women, photosensitivity is not to be taken lightly. Among the forbidden ray, there are those whose photosensitivity is constitutional (xeroderma pigmentosum, vitiligo, rosacea) or transient, due for example to treatment (certain drugs increasing irritation to the sun). These skins react badly to the UV rays: sunburns, brown spots , disproportionate skin reaction ... A very important risk in summer, on the beach as on the terraces or behind a windshield. The protection must therefore be maximum.

I have exhausted my solar capital

We can compare our solar capital to a reservoir in which the body draws to defend itself. The more repeated, long and intense exposures, the lower the capital. And sometimes it runs out   : the melanocytes being exhausted, some areas (usually on the legs and arms) do not tan anymore. Instead, small, rounded white spots ("droplet hypomelanoses") eventually appear.

I exhausted my solar capital: the right formula

"At this point, there is not much left to do, recognizes Michèle Sayag, allergist and director of medical strategy at Bioderma, we have not yet found how to repigment these exhausted skins."

Only solution: maximum protection to avoid further weakening this solar capital.

I want to reduce my allergy to the sun

The most common is benign summer lucitis (LEB), an allergy to UVA that affects 10 to 20% of the population (especially women and especially those under 35). Its characteristic: the appearance, forty-eight hours after the first exposures, small pimples (sometimes accompanied by itching) located on the neck, décolleté and the arms. So many areas usually protected by clothes that do not resist the flow of UVA once stripped on the beach. If this photosensitization fades after a few days, the LEB recurrence each year, often worsening (appearance earlier and earlier in the season, even after moderate exposure).

The right formula: LEB is caused by long UVA (370 to 400 nm), we apply a formula that protects both UVB (to prevent sunburn) and UVA (with filters like Mexoryl® XL to maximum absorption at 344 nm or Tinosorb® M with peaks at 348 and 378 nm). The ideal: a balanced UVA / UVB ratio, equal to one. Protected from UVA by moderately receiving UVB, the skin gets comfortable in the sun and sees its allergic risk decrease.

I have acne pimples

The effect of the sun on acne (even on that of mature skin) is quite perverse. Under the UV, the stratum corneum thickens. This seems to improve the inflammation but can aggravate the obstruction of the pores. If on the surface the red spots disappear, blackheads, comedones and cysts sink deeper into the dermis. When the skin regains its natural thickness, it is the explosion guaranteed! A "rebound" effect that usually appears three weeks after the end of the exposure and causes a real acne breakout.

The right formula: we choose non-comedogenic and rather fluid textures (never creams, greasy and occlusive), preferably in the form of sprays or milks for a quick absorption and a dry touch. Like the formulas dedicated to combination to oily skin, the sun products that fight against this rebound effect absorb the overflow of sebum, at the origin of comedones and the inflammatory cascade that follows. Some even regulate this excessive production and block the proliferation of acne-related bacteria.

I have fair skin

Phototypes 1 ( milky or very light skins ) rarely tan. By producing more red than brown melanin, they tend to blush and sometimes burn.

The right formula: we can help these skins by preparing them with the help of dietary supplements . Take one month before exposure, these capsules increase the threshold of tolerance of the skin and thus limit erythema. If the very high protections are, again, recommended, we can mostly cheat with self - tanners that will radiate the skin, even artificially. And for a light tan that is better for these skin tones, we will choose special formulas for fair skin, with a lower dosage of DHA.

I did surgery or aesthetic medicine

If injections can be practiced all year long, the more aggressive acts ( peeling , resurfacing, split CO2 laser ) stop in April-May to allow the patients to expose themselves a few months later. Attention: it is better to go gradually.

The right formula: recently injured skin will prefer the very high protection (SPF50 ). Those who have undergone cosmetic surgery even benign (removal of imperfections, microcysts or moles) will be extra careful. "A scar takes about a year to reach its final color, warns Michèle Sayag, allergist and director of medical strategy at Bioderma. During this period, one must be very careful about UV, which may change the pigmentation and print brown spots. "

I do not want wrinkles

It is known for a few years, the sun plays a major role in skin aging . UVB, partially absorbed by melanin and responsible for tanning, can produce high doses of oxygen free radicals, while UVA degrade collagen and elastin fibers. In cells, they cause the production of free radicals damaging DNA. Above all, the UVA are not influenced by the time, there are as many in the morning and in the evening as in the middle of the day. "As for infrared, they represent the largest part of the solar spectrum and alter to the deepest layers of the skin," says Olivier Doucet, Vice President Research and Development of Lancaster Laboratories.

The right formula: logically, we choose a broad-spectrum protection that absorbs both UVB and UVA. Associated with an antiradical complex, it will also protect the DNA from oxidative reactions. Most often, these sunscreens also contain vitamin E or polyphenols to support the natural defense systems of the skin against free radicals. In reinforcement, one does not forget the sartorial protection by wearing broad-brimmed hat and sunglasses. A basic advice but still effective ...

I like to have a bright tan

It is necessary that the skin benefits from a good hydration. Especially since it can quickly dry out under the combined effect of sun, wind, sea baths or dives in the pool. Well nourished, the epidermis becomes softer and smoother. Well exfoliated, it is ridded, as a bonus, the dull veil left by dead cells. Two "shine" gestures to be repeated throughout the summer.

The right formula: "Today, a solar must not only protect. It must also offer an immediate beautifying effect, thanks to golden pearls or micro-drops of oil with a satin effect, "notes Raphaëlle Sabran, Marketing Director of L'Oréal Paris. So we favor a protection based on moisturizing ingredients, responsible for making the skin more silky: vegetable oil but also glycerin, aloe vera or shea butter. For an instantaneous result, we opt in parallel for textures full of nacres, which reflect the light by optical effect. And we abuse a diet rich in carotenoids (melons, apricots, carrots, spinach, parsley ...), essential to have a nice amber color.

I do not like having shiny skin

"   When it's hot, the sebum fluidifies and flows more than usual, "says Nathalie Broussard, director of scientific communication at Vichy. However, mixed to oily skin is often reluctant to apply a sunscreen that they accuse of amplifying shine and sensations of wetness.

The right formula: bet on hyper fluid, almost liquid textures that dry quickly. Concentrated in absorbent powders, they avoid the impression of fat due to the excess of sebum. "Silica powders or rice starch have an immediate blotting effect," explains Nathalie Broussard. News on the French market, these combinations to "dry touch" were inspired by the habits of Brazilian women, experts in solar, but especially very concerned not to shine on the beach.